Pepper mash, salt and vinegar. Those are the ingredients, but there’s much more to that bottle of Tabasco than that.
A new book by Jeffrey Rothfeder tells the story of the McIlhenny family and their iconic hot sauce.
McIlhenny’s Gold: How a Louisiana Family Built the Tabasco Empire (Collins) looks at this 139-year-old family business and the family obsessed with protecting its product, privacy and profits.
The saga of the McIlhennys and their sauce is a page-turning narrative that covers three centuries of economic, cultural and social life.
Rothfeder begins by looking at the life of Tabasco’s inventor, Edmund McIlhenny, a successful New Orleans banker who was forced to flee his in-law’s isolated sugar plantation on Avery Island during the Civil War.
Returning after the war, his Dixie currency worthless, McIlhenny found the plantation in ruins. But in the charred earth, he planted a small batch of red peppers that would change the fortunes of this family. Desperate to find a new business venture, he mashed the peppers, added salt and vinegar and created the sauce he called Tabasco, after the region of Mexico where the peppers come from.
It was an instant success.
The family later capitalized on the innovations of the Industrial Revolution to turn the sauce into a national phenomenon by following the same one-dimensional, single-product business model that still drives the company today.
The book looks at the first U.S. company town, created by the family on Avery Island. Until just recently it housed, fed and educated hundreds of company employees despite racial and economic inequalities.
The author also looks at the rise in popularity of chili peppers and fiery foods during the last two decades and how that has shaped the Tabasco company’s direction.
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